My first Easter in Greece took place in just such a setting. For the Holy Week itself I was in Kolonaki with friends who walked with me down to the Church just off of Syntagma for the solemn Friday night procession.
Early Saturday morning the food preparations would begin…the baking of Greek Easter bread studded with red, hard-boiled eggs, cookies, pastries and a special soup called “Mayeritsa” made from lambs’ heads and knuckles. The Mayeritsa would be eaten after the Saturday Midnight services and again at the Sunday afternoon festivities.
What I’ll always remember the most, though was the Midnight service at St. George’s Church on the top of Lycabetus-the highest hill in Athens and just a few streets up from where I was living. The small church and courtyard were filled with people but the atmosphere was quiet and friendly. Just before midnight, I looked down to see the entire city of Athens in darkness. Then the priests came out with their lighted candles to proclaim “Christos Anesti” (Christ Has Risen) and we proceeded to light our neighbors’ candles with the light from our own candles at the same time bestowing a kiss on the cheek and responding, “Alithos Anesti” (He Has Risen Indeed).
Again looking down at the city below you could see candle lit areas surrounding the other churches of the city where small processions of celebrants had begun walking back to their homes. This would take intense concentration because no one wanted to have their candle go out and lose any of their good luck. More spectacular still was the procession of candle light trickling down the sides of Lycabetus Hill.
Early Sunday morning the roasting of the Easter lamb would begin-usually outside in the villages. The bottom of the roasting pit is filled with charcoal, pinewood and the meat is rubbed with oregano and mint and secured on a spit. In addition to all of the other special foods, people would also play a game with red, hard-boiled eggs (symbolizing life inside the tomb and the color representing the blood of Christ). Each person would select an egg and try to crack their opponent’s egg. The egg which remained whole would ensure luck for its owner.
While the lamb was roasting, people would nibble on hors doeuvres and retsina and the dancing would begin. The best dancers emboldened by the joy of the moment would execute their most intricate dance steps in celebration of the eternal rebirth of life throughout the land.
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